Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
